Turn The Love Notions Metro Tee Into A Side-Slit Top

The Love Notions Metro Tee is a useful starting point for a relaxed side-slit top. Its straightforward shape makes it easy to concentrate on proportion, fabric behaviour and neat finishing rather than wrestling with a complicated construction.

A side slit changes the way a tee hangs around the hips. Instead of pulling across the fullest point, the front and back hems can fall more freely, creating extra movement and a slightly longer, more modern silhouette. It is a small adjustment with a noticeable effect.

This hack works especially well with drapey jersey, lightweight French terry or a soft cotton knit. The finished garment can feel casual with jeans, polished with wide-leg trousers, or practical enough for layering throughout the year.

Why The Side Slit Works

The slit creates a little extra room at the lower side seams without changing the fit through the bust, shoulders or upper waist. That makes it a useful alteration when the original tee fits well above the hips but feels too straight or restrictive below them.

It also gives the hemline visual interest. A curved or dipped hem can look more deliberate when the side seam opens, while a simple straight hem produces a clean, easy-to-wear finish. The best version depends on your preferred level of detail and the weight of your fabric.

Keep the opening modest for a subtle everyday top. A slit measuring around 10–15 cm is often enough to improve movement. For a longer tunic-style Metro Tee, you may prefer a deeper opening, but remember that the higher it reaches, the more important careful reinforcement becomes.

Select The Size And Fabric Carefully

Begin with the finished garment measurements rather than choosing a size from the bust measurement alone. Compare the pattern measurements with a favourite knit top, paying particular attention to the hip area and overall length. The slit should add movement, not compensate for a garment that is fundamentally too small.

Your fabric choice will influence the whole project. A fluid rayon jersey will create a softer, swinging hem, while cotton elastane jersey will give the side opening a more stable appearance. A heavier knit may need a shorter slit because its weight can pull at the hem and stretch the opening.

Prewash and dry the fabric in the same way you plan to care for the finished top. Knit fabrics can change length or width after washing, and that difference is particularly visible when the front and back hems meet at a side slit. Test a scrap before cutting if the fabric has strong recovery, rolling edges or a tendency to ladder.

Mark The Side-Slit Adjustment

Trace the front and back pattern pieces before altering them so the original pieces remain available. Mark the new hem level and decide where the side seam will stop. Both sides should be identical, so transfer the markings carefully or create a paper template.

The simplest method is to sew the side seams only up to the chosen slit point. If the pattern includes a curved hem, retain the original curve and mark the opening along the side seam. For a straighter look, blend the lower side seam gently into the hem rather than creating a sharp corner.

Add a small reinforcement at the top of each slit. A strip of lightweight fusible interfacing on the wrong side can stabilise the area, although some delicate knits may respond better to a narrow piece of clear elastic or stay tape. Keep the reinforcement soft enough that the side seam can still move naturally.

Sew And Finish The Opening

Construct the shoulders and sleeves according to the pattern instructions, then sew the side seams from the underarm down to the slit mark. A stretch stitch or narrow zigzag will preserve movement, while an overlocker gives a tidy finish if the seam allowance and machine settings are familiar to you.

Press the seam allowance towards the back or open it, depending on the pattern and fabric. At the top of the slit, avoid stopping abruptly with a weak backstitch. Lower the needle, pivot if needed, and reinforce the area with a short line of stitching or a compact bar tack.

The raw edges of the opening need the same attention as the hem. You can finish them with a narrow twin-needle hem, a coverstitch, a zigzag, or a binding strip. For more guidance on choosing a suitable method, these lightweight seam finishes are useful when working with fabrics that need a delicate touch.

Finish	Best for	Advantages	Watch out for
Twin-needle hem	Stable jersey	Professional parallel stitching	Can tunnel without correct tension
Zigzag edge	Lightweight or very stretchy knit	Flexible and accessible	Needs careful pressing
Coverstitch	Frequent knit sewing	Durable, polished finish	Requires specialist equipment
Knit binding	Slits needing extra definition	Neat, controlled edge	Adds a little bulk
Overlocked edge	Quick internal finishing	Fast and secure	May need a separate visible hem

Balance The Front And Back Hems

Before hemming, hang the top on a dress form or try it on over the underwear and trousers you are likely to wear with it. Check that the side seams hang vertically and that the front and back hem levels look intentional. Jersey can shift while sewing, so do not rely on the cut edges alone.

If the back hem rides higher, the fabric may be stretching during construction or the garment may need more length over the hips. If the front swings away, the slit could be too high or the hem may need stabilising. These problems are easier to correct before the final row of stitching.

Press the hem with a low-to-medium heat setting and a pressing cloth where appropriate. Let the fabric cool before moving it, allowing the stitches and fibres to settle. A narrow strip of washable hem tape can help a lightweight knit keep its shape, but test it first because adhesive products can affect drape.

Check The Fit Before Finishing

Make a quick sample from spare fabric if the top is long, the knit is expensive or the slit will be deep. The sample does not need perfect neckline or sleeve finishes. It only needs to show how the side opening affects walking, sitting and reaching.

Look at the slit while standing and seated. It should open enough for comfort without exposing more of the side seam than you intended. If the opening spreads when you move, lower the slit point, add a little reinforcement, or reduce the width of the hem turn-up.

A narrow strip of contrast fabric inside the slit can become a thoughtful design feature. Alternatively, use matching thread for a quiet finish and let the silhouette provide the detail. Small touches such as a woven label, a carefully pressed neckline or coordinated topstitching can make the hacked garment feel considered.

Keep These Details In Mind

The adjustment is simple, but a few practical choices make the difference between a tidy finish and a stretched, uneven opening.

• Measure the slit depth on both front and back pieces before cutting or sewing.
• Stabilise the top of the opening with interfacing, stay tape or a small reinforcement stitch.
• Use a walking foot or stretch-friendly machine settings if the fabric shifts beneath the presser foot.
• Test the hem finish on scraps, especially when combining a fine jersey with a twin needle.
• Photograph the finished fit so you can refine the length and slit position on a future version.

A side-slit Metro Tee is also a good project for comparing different knit fabrics. Make the first version in a forgiving cotton jersey, then try a drapier fabric once you know how much length and opening suit your shape.

If you share project photographs, fabric details or pattern adjustments online, remember that thoughtful documentation helps other sewists repeat the process. Keep personal information separate from project notes by checking the site’s privacy policy before submitting comments or subscribing to updates.

The beauty of this alteration is its flexibility. It can remain a subtle change to a classic knit tee or become the basis for a longer, more architectural top. Start with a well-fitting pattern, make the opening symmetrical, and give the fabric enough support to keep its shape.

Choose your fabric, mark the slit on a traced Metro Tee pattern and make a quick fitting sample before cutting into your main material. With a few careful stitches and patient pressing, an everyday tee can become a distinctive side-slit top that earns regular wear.