How to Make Bias Binding from Scrap Fabric

Bias binding is a useful way to turn small fabric leftovers into neat edge finishes, ties and decorative details. Cut on the diagonal grain, it has enough stretch to curve around armholes, necklines and rounded hems without puckering.

The method suits almost any sewing space, from a full cutting table to a kitchen bench in a Melbourne flat. It also makes practical sense in Australia, where lightweight cottons are popular for warm-weather clothing and fabric scraps can quickly accumulate after sewing summer dresses, shirts and reusable bags.

A few accurate cuts and a hot iron are the main requirements. The finished tape can be single-fold or double-fold, narrow or wide, and made from one print or several coordinated scraps. Josephine’s sewing background reflects the same practical, approachable spirit: use what you have, test the technique and make it work for your project.

Binding style	Best use	Finished width	Fabric needed
Single-fold	Necklines, hems and seam finishing	10–20 mm	Narrow strips
Double-fold	Armholes, quilt edges and exposed seams	10–15 mm	Wider strips
Wide binding	Ties, straps and decorative edging	20–30 mm	Long, stable strips
Joined scraps	Colour-blocked details and small projects	Any width	Several short pieces

Choose Suitable Fabric Scraps

Light to medium-weight woven fabric is the easiest choice for homemade bias tape. Cotton lawn, quilting cotton, linen, rayon challis and lightweight denim can all work, although each produces a different result. Firm cotton gives crisp folds, while rayon creates a softer, more fluid edge.

Avoid scraps with stretched-out edges, deep creases or areas weakened by unpicking. Small prints and plain colours are forgiving because joins are less obvious. For a hot Brisbane summer top, breathable cotton or linen will feel comfortable against the skin; for a winter wool skirt in Hobart, a sturdier binding may sit more neatly.

Check that the fabric has been prewashed if the finished garment will be washed regularly. This prevents the binding from shrinking after it has been stitched on. Sort scraps by colour and weight before cutting so a delicate lining fabric does not end up supporting a heavy canvas edge.

Find the Bias Grain

The bias runs diagonally across woven fabric at approximately 45 degrees to the selvedge. It has more give than the lengthwise or crosswise grain, which allows binding to follow curves. To identify it, fold one corner of a square scrap towards the opposite edge; the fold line is close to the bias direction.

For a simple strip, mark parallel lines across the fabric at your chosen width. A quilting ruler and rotary cutter make this quick and accurate, but a ruler, pencil and sharp fabric scissors are perfectly suitable. In Australia, metric measurements are standard, so measuring strips in millimetres makes it easier to match commercial pattern instructions.

Cutting on a true diagonal matters more than achieving an exact 45-degree angle. If the piece is too small for a full strip, arrange short diagonal sections so the grain direction remains consistent. Strips cut slightly off bias may still work on straight edges, but they can resist curves and create tiny folds around an armhole.

Decide the Strip Width

The required cutting width depends on how the binding will be folded and attached. For 12 mm finished double-fold binding, cut strips around 48 mm wide: fold both long edges towards the centre, then fold the strip in half. Always test a short piece because fabric thickness changes the final measurement.

A narrow binding is attractive on a fine neckline, while a wider strip is easier for beginners to handle. If the project pattern specifies a finished width, calculate the cutting width as four times that measurement for standard double-fold binding. Add a few millimetres for bulky fabrics or a seam allowance that needs full coverage.

Cut more length than you think you need. A curved neckline consumes binding quickly, and joining an extra strip is easier before the tape is folded. Scraps measuring 10–15 cm wide can produce useful short lengths for pocket openings, quilt corners and small repairs.

Join the Strips Neatly

Place two strips right sides together at a right angle, with their ends extending evenly. Mark a diagonal line from one outside corner to the opposite corner, then stitch along it. Trim the seam to about 5 mm and press it open. This diagonal join spreads bulk and avoids a noticeable ridge across the binding.

Continue joining strips until you have the required length, checking that the bias direction flows consistently. Offset the joins rather than placing several in the same area of a neckline or hem. A chain of joined scraps can be surprisingly strong when its seams are pressed properly.

Before pressing the binding into folds, gently pull it through your fingers to check for twists. If a join turns the tape over, unpick it immediately. This small inspection saves time later, especially when working with slippery rayon or loosely woven linen.

Press the Binding Into Shape

For single-fold binding, press each long edge towards the wrong side by the desired amount. A 20 mm strip can be folded in half and pressed, or each edge can be folded by 5 mm depending on the finish. Use a pressing cloth for dark rayon, delicate silk or fabrics that may shine under high heat.

Double-fold binding is usually made by pressing the strip in half lengthways first, wrong sides together, then pressing both raw edges towards that centre fold. Keep the iron moving and use steam carefully. Australian tap water varies considerably between cities, so distilled water can help prevent mineral marks if your iron tends to spit.

A bias tape maker speeds up the process, but it is not essential. Feed the strip through the tool, press the emerging folds and allow the tape to cool flat. Cooling helps the fibres hold their new shape, particularly in humid coastal areas such as Sydney or Darwin.

Attach It to Garments

For a neckline or armhole, open one folded edge and stitch it to the garment right sides together. Follow the curve slowly, easing the binding around without stretching the fabric. Trim or grade the seam allowance, clip gently into curves and press the binding away from the garment.

Fold the binding over the seam allowance and stitch close to the inner fold from the garment side, or secure it by hand for an almost invisible finish. On a lightweight summer dress, a narrow binding produces a clean edge; on a linen jacket, a wider contrasting strip can become a deliberate design feature.

Bias tape also works for exposed seams, apron ties, quilt binding and fabric straps. When making children’s clothing or items for sale, check the relevant Australian care requirements. The care labelling standard is a useful reminder that washing and ironing instructions need to match the materials and construction.

Make the Most of Small Lengths

Short pieces are valuable even when they cannot wrap a whole neckline. Use them to finish a pocket, bind a seam intersection, create a loop or add a hanging tab. Joining contrasting prints can create a cheerful patchwork effect, particularly on tote bags and kitchen textiles.

Keep finished binding wound around a cardboard card, a bobbin or a wide ruler. Label the width and fibre content if known. This prevents a useful length disappearing into a scrap box and makes future project planning faster. Store dark and light colours separately if loose dye transfer is a concern.

A simple scrap routine keeps the cutting process manageable:

• Prewash and dry scraps before measuring them.
• Cut strips with a rotary cutter when the fabric is stable.
• Join strips with diagonal seams and press those seams open.
• Test the folded width on the project before making a long length.
• Match the fabric weight to the garment or item being finished.
• Keep short leftovers for loops, ties, pockets and repairs.

Use Bias Binding With Confidence

The best binding is the one that suits the fabric, curve and level of wear. A crisp cotton edge may be ideal for a neckline, while soft linen-rayon blend tape will drape better on a loose blouse. Make a small sample whenever the fabric is unfamiliar, especially if it stretches, frays or changes appearance when pressed.

In a busy sewing room, bias binding made from remnants is a practical form of fabric economy rather than a compromise. It reduces waste, adds a personal detail and gives you a ready-made solution for future projects. More ideas for DIY sewing projects can help turn those carefully saved scraps into useful, wearable finishes.