Converting Your Love Notions Encore Top into a Cosy Cardigan

The Love Notions Encore Top has earned a devoted following among indie sewing enthusiasts for its relaxed fit, clean lines and clever sleeve options. Josephine has stitched several versions on her Yorkshire worktable, and the pattern keeps appearing in her makes because it suits so many body shapes and fabric weights. Converting the pullover into a cardigan opens up a whole new category of layering pieces, particularly useful for sewists who want one pattern to stretch across autumn, winter and the chilly shoulder seasons.

Australian weather often calls for a cardigan rather than a pullover, especially in Melbourne where mornings can start at eight degrees and afternoons climb into the twenties. In Brisbane, where winters rarely dip below single figures, a lightweight cardigan becomes a useful office staple from May through September. Readers who shop at The Fabric Store in Sydney or Tessuti in Melbourne already have the perfect drapey knit in their stash waiting for exactly this kind of project.

Why a Cardigan Version Makes Sense

A pullover works wonderfully in colder months, but a cardigan offers flexibility that a closed-front garment simply cannot match. Throwing one over a singlet in a sun-warmed Adelaide office, or buttoning it against a sea breeze in Fremantle, suits the kind of variable climate most Australians navigate every week. The Encore pattern translates beautifully into an open-front or button-front version because the original neckline is wide enough to accommodate a centre front opening without major redrafting.

Beyond practicality, a cardigan gives you two styling modes in a single garment. Worn open over a print dress, it behaves like a soft layering piece. Closed with a statement button or self-fabric loop, it functions almost like a jumper. The conversion also lets you add patch pockets, which the original pullover does not include, giving you somewhere warm to tuck chilly hands during a coastal winter walk along the Mornington Peninsula or the Bellarine coast.

Choosing Fabric That Works for Layering

Fabric choice drives the success of any Encore hack, and a cardigan version deserves particular thought. Mid-weight jerseys with around five percent elastane hold their shape through the front opening, while lighter viscose jerseys drape elegantly but need a stay tape at the centre front to prevent stretching. Cotton-modal blends sold at Cloth Edit or the heavier ponte rolls at Spotlight in Australia work well for a more structured cardigan that holds its own over thicker winter layers.

If you are tempted by a silk-blend jersey for a dressier version, the same handling tips in this guide on sewing with silk tips for slippery fabrics will save you from a wobbly neckline. Pre-wash your knit the way you intend to launder the finished garment, because Australian water hardness in some regions can cause certain rayons to shrink unpredictably. Always dry your fabric flat rather than tossing it in the dryer before cutting.

Adjusting the Pattern Pieces

The most important adjustment when converting the Encore from pullover to cardigan is splitting the front piece down the centre and adding a button placket. Trace the original front pattern piece, then cut it along the centre front line. Add a strip the depth of your chosen binding plus seam allowance along each new front edge. For a casual open-front cardigan, four centimetres of overlap works well, while a fully buttoned version needs around six to seven centimetres.

You will also need to extend the front hem by two to three centimetres to account for the added weight of the placket. If you plan to add patch pockets, draw them onto the front piece before cutting rather than tracing separately, which keeps the grain consistent. Readers who enjoy pattern hacking will recognise a similar method to the Stella dress modifications, where small pattern shifts create a noticeably different garment. Sleeve length and body length stay identical to the original Encore, which keeps the proportions familiar and your favourite fit intact.

Construction Steps and Finishing Touches

Start by sewing the shoulder seams with a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag, then attach the sleeves. If you are using a stable ponte, you can use a regular sewing machine throughout, but for slippery knits a walking foot or a knit-specific presser foot helps the layers feed evenly. A quick basting of the front edges before applying the binding keeps the placket from shifting under the machine.

For the front bands, cut two strips on the crosswise grain slightly longer than your front edges, then attach them right sides together, trim and turn. Topstitching close to the folded edge gives a crisp finish that mimics ready-to-wear cardigans. Those who love a little drama in their makes might enjoy adding gathered sleeves instead of the standard set-in version, and the principles covered in puff sleeve drafting transfer nicely to a knit version with a little extra ease added to the sleeve cap.

The hem can be finished with a twin needle for a professional store-bought look, or with a simple turned-and-stitched hem if you prefer a softer drape. Buttons and buttonholes depend on your chosen fabric: shank buttons suit thicker knits, while flat buttons work well for finer jerseys. Self-fabric loops add a relaxed, handmade feel that suits weekend wear and pair beautifully with linen trousers or a soft denim skirt for a Byron Bay-inspired winter look.

Wear the finished cardigan open over a fitted tee, button it up as a jumper alternative, or belt it at the waist with a soft tie for shape. The conversion process itself, once you have made one version, becomes a reliable template for turning other pullover patterns into cardigans. Keep notes on your placket width and binding depth so the next iteration comes together even faster, and consider sewing a quick muslin in an inexpensive cotton jersey before committing to your final fabric.

Practical Recommendations for Your Encore Cardigan Make

A few small habits make the difference between a homemade cardigan and a polished one. Run through these tips before you sit down at your machine, and your finished Encore cardigan will look like it came from a boutique in Fitzroy or Paddington rather than from your dining table.

• Pre-wash and dry your knit flat to prevent unexpected shrinkage, particularly with rayon-rich jerseys that react to Australian water conditions.
• Add a lightweight knit interfacing or stay tape along the centre front edges to stop the placket from stretching out with wear.
• Cut patch pockets from the same fabric but interface the upper edge only, keeping the body of the pocket soft against the hip.
• Test buttonhole placement on a fabric scrap first, as knit buttonholes behave differently from woven versions and may need a stabiliser.
• Finish every raw edge, even inside seams, because knits continue to fray slightly along cut edges during washing.