Adding practical pockets to the Love Notions Margot Cardigan

A cardigan can look beautifully finished without pockets, but adding them often makes the garment far more useful. They give you somewhere to tuck your phone, sewing clips, keys, or a pair of reading glasses, while also adding interest to an otherwise simple front.

The Love Notions Margot Cardigan is a good candidate for this kind of adjustment because a pocket can be added without changing the main fit. The safest approach is to work with the existing side seams and hem, keeping the alteration neat, stable, and easy to repeat on a future version.

Pocket construction is especially worth considering when sewing with stable jersey, ponte, French terry, or another medium-weight knit. Before cutting into your final fabric, make a paper template and check that the pocket suits both the cardigan length and the scale of the print.

Why pockets suit the Margot silhouette

A cardigan pocket needs to support the garment rather than pull it out of shape. Side-seam pockets are usually the most discreet choice because they blend into the construction lines and do not interrupt the front edges, neckline, or any draped detail. They also keep the cardigan looking polished when your hands are out of the pockets.

Patch pockets create a more visible, casual finish. They can be useful if the front of your cardigan is relatively plain, particularly when using a solid colour or a subtle texture. A contrast fabric, decorative topstitching, or a carefully matched print can turn the pocket into an intentional design feature.

Think about how you want to wear the cardigan before choosing the style. If it is intended as a smart layering piece, an invisible side-seam pocket may be best. For a cosy weekend cardigan, a generous patch pocket can add warmth as well as practicality. Josephine’s email updates are a useful way to keep up with future sewing ideas and pattern projects.

Choose the pocket style and size

The simplest option is a side-seam pocket made from two curved pieces. It is inserted into the seam allowance, so the pocket opening remains at the side while the pocket bag hangs inside the cardigan. This style works particularly well when the cardigan has a relaxed shape and enough ease around the hip.

A patch pocket is cut as one piece, or as a lined pair, and sewn directly to the wrong side or right side of the front. Rounded lower corners are comfortable to use, while a slightly squared shape gives a cleaner, more tailored look. Keep the pocket opening wide enough for your hand, but avoid making it so large that the fabric stretches or sags.

For an adult garment, a finished pocket opening of approximately 15–18 cm is a useful starting point. The pocket depth can be around 20–24 cm, depending on the cardigan length and your preference. Use your own hand as a guide: trace around it with a little extra ease, then add seam allowance around the outline.

Plan the placement before cutting

Put on the unfinished cardigan, or hold the front pattern piece against your body, and mark where your hand naturally rests. A pocket that sits too high feels awkward, while one placed too low can pull at the hem. The opening should usually angle gently upwards towards the side seam so that objects remain secure.

If you are adding side-seam pockets, check that the front and back pieces have enough seam length below the pocket opening to support the pocket weight. Mark the pocket start and finish on both side seams, transferring the marks with washable chalk, thread tacks, or small snips within the seam allowance.

Knit fabric can behave differently after pressing, so test the pocket using scraps first. Sew a miniature version, place it over the cardigan front, and assess whether the pocket edge stretches, whether the fabric rolls, and whether the pocket bag shows through from the outside. A lightweight pocket lining can reduce bulk in a drapey cardigan.

Sew a stable and comfortable pocket

For a side-seam pocket, stay-stitch or reinforce the pocket opening if the fabric is soft. Sew the pocket pieces to the front and back seam allowances, matching the notches carefully. Press the pocket pieces away from the garment, then sew the side seam and pocket bag in one continuous line, pivoting neatly at the pocket opening.

A narrow zigzag, stretch stitch, or serger seam will preserve movement. If you use an overlocker, secure the thread tails and avoid trimming too aggressively around the pocket curve. The pocket needs enough seam allowance to withstand repeated use, especially when it will carry a phone or keys.

A patch pocket benefits from a stabilised top edge. Fuse a narrow strip of knit interfacing or stay tape along the opening, depending on the fabric and the recommendations for your interfacing. Finish the top edge first, press the seam allowance carefully, and sew the pocket to the cardigan with a stretch stitch or a narrow twin-needle finish.

Compare the main pocket options

Pocket style	Best for	Advantages	Points to watch
Side-seam pocket	Relaxed or everyday cardigans	Discreet, comfortable, and easy to use	Can add weight to the side seam
Patch pocket	Casual styles and plain fabrics	Simple to construct and easy to customise	Visible stitching must be even
Curved patch pocket	A softer, feminine finish	Comfortable hand entry and attractive shape	Needs careful pressing around the curve
Welt pocket	Structured knits and advanced projects	Neat, polished, and highly professional	Requires accurate marking and stabilisation
Lined patch pocket	Lightweight or delicate knits	Reduces stretching and improves durability	Extra layers may add bulk

The fabric makes a significant difference to the result. Ponte and sweatshirt fleece can support a patch pocket without much help, while lightweight jersey may need lining or stabiliser. If your fabric has strong horizontal or directional stripes, place the pocket template on the fold or align it with the front so the pattern flows naturally.

Before committing to a visible pocket, pin or baste it in position and try the cardigan on. Sit down, walk around, and put your hand inside. This quick fitting check often reveals that the pocket needs to move a couple of centimetres towards the side seam or slightly higher on the body.

Finish the details for a professional result

Pressing is just as important as stitching. Use a low to medium heat suitable for the knit, and press with a cloth if the fabric is prone to shine. A tailor’s ham or a rolled towel can help shape curved pocket edges without flattening the cardigan front.

Topstitching can make the pocket look deliberate and keep the opening flat. Match the thread for a quiet finish, or choose a contrast thread if you want to highlight the construction. Test the stitch length and tension on scraps, because long stitches may look attractive but can create weak points at the pocket corners.

Reinforce stress points with a few short backstitches or a small bar tack. Avoid making the reinforcement too dense, as excessive stitching can cause a ridge or prevent the knit from stretching comfortably. Once the pocket is sewn, check the inside for loose threads and make sure the pocket bag cannot catch on jewellery or clothing underneath.

Test the finished garment before wearing it

Load the pocket with the items you are most likely to carry. A phone and keys will place more strain on the garment than an empty hand, so this is the time to check for stretching, gaping, or twisting. If the pocket pulls the side seam forward, it may need a larger opening, a deeper anchoring point, or a small strip of stabilising tape.

If you enjoy adapting independent patterns, you can find more garment-making ideas among these sewing projects. Keep notes about the pocket dimensions, fabric type, and placement so you can use the information when making another Margot Cardigan or modifying a different knit pattern.

For reassurance, wash the completed cardigan according to the fabric instructions and inspect the pocket afterwards. Knit garments can relax during laundering, and a pocket that looked perfectly balanced before washing may need a final press or a small adjustment to the opening.

A practical pocket checklist

• Make a paper pocket template and test the size against your hand.
• Mark the opening on both side seams before sewing the cardigan together.
• Stabilise soft knit fabric with stay tape, lightweight interfacing, or a lining.
• Baste the pocket in place and try on the cardigan before final stitching.
• Reinforce the opening and corners so the pocket can carry everyday essentials.

Adding pockets is a small alteration with a noticeable effect. Take your time with placement, test the construction on scraps, and let the fabric guide your choice of pocket style. When the cardigan fits well and the pockets sit naturally, the finished garment becomes something you can reach for every day. For details about how email information is handled, see the site’s privacy policy.