Sewing the Closet Core Kelly Anorak: a hands-on pattern review

There's something quietly satisfying about stitching a jacket. After months of lighter makes, my sewing machine has spent the cooler months humming through cotton linings and cotton-twill shells, and the Closet Core Patterns Kelly Anorak has been high on my list. The internet (and my own Pinterest boards) is full of softly draped Kelly versions in earthy neutrals, sage greens, and buttery yellows. I wondered whether the pattern really delivers on its promise of a stylish, casual rain-resistant layer for everyday wear.

Closet Core is a Canadian indie label, and the Kelly Anorak joined its line-up in recent years. It offers a relaxed silhouette with shaped seams, a generous hood, a zip-front closure, and a drawcord waist, sitting somewhere between a structured trench and a slouchy hoodie.

I live in Sydney, where weather swings between humid summers and damp, breezy winters, so an anorak suits both seasons. Chain haberdasheries like the remaining Spotlight stores in Brisbane, Melbourne, and Adelaide stock only a slim range of mid-weight cottons, which means sourcing the right base cloth takes more hunting than in a major North American city. Independent shops such as Tessuti in Sydney and The Fabric Store in Melbourne are my first stops for dressmaking fabrics.

What follows is a review of how the pattern performed, what I learned, and a few small adjustments I'd make next time. I'll cover the size range, a yardage comparison, construction notes, fitting tweaks including a small bust adjustment, and styling ideas for Australian seasons.

What the Kelly Anorak offers

The pattern is supplied as a PDF with layered sizes from 0 to 32, roughly covering bust measurements between 81 cm and 152 cm. There are two views: View A has a longer hem, drawcord waist, and optional ruffle peeking below; View B is shorter without the ruffle, for a sportier finish. Both share the hood, two-piece cuffed sleeve, kangaroo pocket, and zip-front placket.

The PDF format makes it easy to print only the sizes you need and to mix cup sizes where Closet Core has graded them (it has, slightly). The booklet runs to dozens of clear diagrams and includes cutting layouts for both 115 cm and 150 cm wide fabrics. A project sheet at the back helps tick off components, which I appreciated on longer builds.

Size range	Bust (cm)	Lightweight fabric, 150cm	Medium-weight fabric, 150cm	Lining, 145cm
0–8	81–96	2.4 m	2.6 m	2.0 m
10–16	99–112	2.8 m	3.0 m	2.3 m
18–24	114–130	3.2 m	3.4 m	2.6 m
26–32	132–152	3.6 m	3.8 m	2.9 m

These yardage estimates assume a directional print; on non-directional cloth you can trim a little. The pattern pieces are labelled in inches and centimetres side by side, which helps metric sewists in Australia.

Fabric and notions

Closet Core suggests mid-weight cotton twill, dry oilskin, or a waterproofed canvas for the outer. I chose a washed cotton twill from a Melbourne-based mill in soft sage, papery out of the packet and softer after a wash. A cotton lawn from my stash lined it in tonal cream.

You'll want a separating zipper that matches or contrasts your shell, a few spools of thread, and cord or twill tape for the waist and hood drawstrings. Hardware like eyelets and cord locks is worth sourcing from a specialist rather than a chain store.

What to gather before you cut

• Separating zipper, 50–55 cm, in metal or chunky plastic
• Two cord locks and four eyelets for drawstring openings
• Four buttons or snaps for the cuff tabs
• Bias binding for the hood seam allowance (about 1.5 m)

For the drawstring cord, I used flat cotton braid cut from leftover trim. If you'd rather use a ready-made cord, La modista de Atenea stocks woven drawstrings in a small range of widths. Order slightly more than you think you need so you can finish the ends neatly with a wrapped thread or a small metal aglet.

Sourcing eyelets in Australia can be a small hurdle. Specialist online shops like Purple Owl, or a quick trip to Bunnings for a grommet kit, will do the job, although the colours skew silver and brass rather than the matte black that pairs best with most Kelly shells.

Cutting and assembly

Cutting is the most time-consuming step, mainly because of the lining pieces and facings. I traced my size onto tracing paper rather than cutting the PDF directly, which gave room to mark notches clearly. Use a marking pen that disappears with water or air rather than chalk; oilskins can stain permanently if you press over chalk lines.

Construction proceeds in the usual order: back, sides, and front yokes first, then the kangaroo pocket constructed as a single bag and topstitched into place. The placket is a two-step process involving a separate facing, and the zip gets basted before final topstitching. Sleeves are set in flat before side seams are joined, which makes the shell easier to manage on a domestic machine.

Closet Core writes clearly for hobby sewists at an intermediate level. The diagrams are large, and the trickiest steps are the kangaroo pocket opening and the drawstring casing, both of which benefit from a walking foot and a slightly longer stitch.

A quick note for Australian sewists on care labelling: any garment you intend to sell or publicly gift should carry a permanent label that meets the mandatory standard set out by the ACCC under the Australian Consumer Law. For personal projects this isn't legally required, but ribbon tape or printed labels from Spotlight or Etsy AU sellers will satisfy the standard if you list a finished Kelly on a marketplace.

Fitting tweaks and small bust adjustments

Out of the packet, the Kelly is drafted for a B cup, with the front darts in fairly standard positions. My measurements put me closer to an A cup on top, so the front bodice had noticeably excess fabric between the side seam and the apex. Rather than take it in at the side, which would distort the placket and pocket placement, I did a small bust adjustment on each front piece.

If you're new to this kind of alteration, the https://itisjosie.com/insights/2026/08/how-to-adjust-a-pattern-for-a-small-bust walkthrough covers the technique on a bodice block, and the same logic applies directly to the Kelly fronts. I shortened the bodice by roughly 1.5 cm at the apex and rotated that amount out of the dart, which gave a clean front without rippling. I also slimmed the sleeve bicep by a generous centimetre, a step I'd recommend before cutting most indie sleeve heads.

I lengthened the body by 2 cm because I'm 173 cm tall and most indie patterns are drafted for a 170 cm frame. A Kelly that hits at the right point on the hip looks more polished than one that catches at the widest part. I left the sleeves at their original length because, cuffed, they sit at a flattering spot just past the wrist bone.

Styling the Kelly anorak in Australian weather

The Kelly works as a year-round jacket across most of Australia, but how you wear it depends on where you are. In Hobart's brisk springs and autumns, I layer fine merino underneath and close the cuffs. In Brisbane's humid summers, I leave the zip open and wear it over a cotton tank as a softshell alternative. The drawcord adjusts the silhouette from cocooning to defined, which makes it forgiving across both windy coastal walks and quiet weekends at the local farmers' markets.

Care for a cotton-twill Kelly is gentle: cool machine wash, line dry in shade, warm iron. The oilskin version needs even less; a wipe-down and an annual re-proofing with a fabric wax is usually enough.

Keeping yours looking sharp

• Hang on a wide wooden hanger to preserve the shoulder line
• Re-shape the hood and lay flat to dry after wet weather
• Spot-clean oilskin marks with a soft brush rather than washing
• Rotate buttons and snaps seasonally to spread wear

The Kelly Anorak rewards careful cutting and patient construction. It's not a weekend make; mine took around 18 hours of sewing across two weeks, plus a further evening of fitting tweaks. The instructions are detailed and the pieces fit together cleanly, slotting the finished jacket into a real gap in most handmade wardrobes. If you've been hesitating, it's well worth the investment.

For questions about construction, fabric choices, or how a Kelly might work for your shape, please reach out directly.