Make a Drawstring Pouch for Your Sewing Notions

A drawstring pouch is one of those small sewing projects that earns its place in every craft room. It can corral bobbins, clips, hand-sewing needles, embroidery scissors and spare labels, while also giving you a useful way to practise accurate seams and neat finishing. The finished bag is quick to sew, easy to customise and practical enough for everyday use.

For Australian sewists, it is also a handy project for making the most of fabric scraps. A lightweight cotton left over from a summer dress, a sturdy remnant from a jacket, or an old linen shirt from an op shop can all become a useful notions bag. Choose washable materials, keep the construction uncomplicated and you will have a portable sewing organiser ready for classes, retreats or a weekend away.

Choose A Practical Size And Fabric

Begin by deciding what the pouch needs to hold. A small bag measuring about 15 cm wide by 18 cm tall is suitable for needles, pins and a tape measure. For larger items such as fabric clips, a seam ripper and thread snips, increase the width to 20 or 22 cm. Remember that the finished pouch will be smaller than the cut fabric once the side seams and casing have been sewn.

Quilting cotton is an excellent choice because it is stable, widely available and simple to press. Cotton-linen blends provide a little more texture, while lightweight canvas makes a hard-wearing project bag. If you are sewing in Queensland or the Northern Territory, where humidity can affect natural fibres, prewash and dry the fabric thoroughly before cutting so later shrinkage does not distort the pouch.

A small amount of interfacing can give the bag extra body without making it stiff. Use lightweight fusible interfacing for quilting cotton and test it on a scrap first. For a softer pouch, skip the interfacing and let the fabric fold naturally around the contents.

Prepare The Pattern Pieces

You can draft this pouch with a ruler rather than downloading a pattern. Cut two outer rectangles and two lining rectangles to the same dimensions, adding a 1 cm seam allowance around every edge. For a 20 cm by 22 cm finished pouch, cut four rectangles measuring 22 cm wide by 26 cm high. The extra height allows room for the casing at the top.

Mark the wrong side of each piece with a removable fabric pen. On the outer pieces, draw a horizontal line 4 cm below the top edge. This indicates the casing area and makes it easier to keep the opening consistent. If you are using directional fabric, check that the design will sit upright on both sides before cutting.

Australian pattern instructions often use centimetres, but it is still worth checking the markings on your ruler if you have imported tools or an American pattern in the sewing room. Accurate cutting matters more than speed here. A rotary cutter, quilting ruler and cutting mat will produce cleaner edges, although sharp fabric scissors work perfectly well.

Sew The Outer Pouch

Place the two outer rectangles right sides together and pin or clip the side and bottom edges. Stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance, backstitching at the beginning and end. Leave the top edge open. Press the seams flat, then press them towards one side or open them, depending on the fabric thickness.

For a boxed base, pinch each bottom corner so the side seam meets the bottom fold. Measure 2.5 cm from the point, draw a line across the corner and stitch along it. Trim away the excess triangle, leaving a small seam allowance. This creates a pouch that can stand on a table instead of collapsing flat.

The same technique is useful when making project bags for sewing groups or craft markets. A flat pouch is simple to store, but a boxed bottom gives you more usable space and makes it easier to see what is inside. If you are new to corner shaping, practise on a paper mock-up before sewing the fabric.

Assemble The Lining

Sew the lining pieces together in the same way as the outer fabric, but leave an opening of about 7 cm in the centre of the bottom seam. This gap will allow you to turn the pouch right side out later. If you plan to use a thick fabric, make the opening slightly larger.

Box the lining corners if you boxed the outer pouch. Press the lining carefully, paying attention to the top edge. The lining should fit inside the outer pouch without bunching. If it feels tight, trim the side seams by a few millimetres rather than forcing the layers together.

For a reversible-looking finish, choose a lining with a contrasting print. A bright gingham or floral fabric makes it easier to spot tiny notions inside. When buying remnants at Spotlight or a local fabric shop, look for coordinating half-metre pieces; they are often enough for both the lining and a matching cord channel.

Create A Clean Drawstring Casing

Turn the outer pouch right side out and keep the lining wrong side out. Slide the outer pouch inside the lining so the right sides of the fabrics face each other. Match the side seams and top raw edges, then clip around the opening. Sew all the way around the top with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Before turning the pouch, reduce bulk at the top by trimming the seam allowance slightly and clipping around the curve or corners. Do not cut through the stitching. Pull the pouch through the opening in the lining and push out the corners with a blunt turning tool. Press the top edge carefully.

Close the lining opening with a narrow machine stitch or ladder stitch. Then topstitch around the upper edge, approximately 2 cm below the finished top. This line forms the drawstring channel. Sew a second parallel line if you want a wider casing for thick cord, but check that the gap is large enough for the cord to pass through comfortably.

Thread And Finish The Cord

A cotton cord, soft shoelace or narrow recycled fabric tie can work as the drawstring. Cut two lengths, each roughly twice the width of the pouch plus 10 cm. Australian craft shops and haberdashery counters often sell cord by the metre, so buying a little extra allows for testing and knotting.

Use a safety pin or bodkin to thread one cord through the casing, entering and exiting at the same side. Thread the second cord from the opposite side so the two loops pull in opposite directions. Tie the ends securely, then knot each pair together. A dab of fabric glue on the knot can prevent fraying, but allow it to dry fully before using the pouch.

If you prefer a fabric tie, cut a strip about 5 cm wide, fold it in half lengthways, press, then fold the raw edges in and stitch along the long edge. This produces a soft, washable drawstring that coordinates with the pouch. It is particularly useful for children’s sewing kits or a portable mending bag.

Use It Beyond The Sewing Room

This little bag can organise more than pins and thread. Keep embroidery floss, crochet hooks, appliqué pieces or elastic inside it. It can also hold hair accessories, chargers, travel medicines or small toys. Adding a stitched label makes it easier to identify when several pouches are packed into a larger project tote.

A drawstring pouch is a useful companion to a handmade wardrobe project because it can use the same fabric as a garment. For example, leftover cloth from an everyday pair of trousers can become a matching notions bag; Josie’s Ellie and Mac review offers the kind of practical garment-making inspiration that can lead to useful scrap projects.

For winter sewing in colder parts of Victoria, Tasmania or the New South Wales tablelands, try wool-blend scraps for the outer layer and a smooth cotton lining. Ideas from these coat fabric recommendations can help you judge which heavier leftovers will fold neatly without making the casing too bulky.

Helpful Finishing Choices

The best results come from a few deliberate choices made before the first seam is stitched. Keep the design simple, but take time with pressing, seam matching and the drawstring channel. These small details give a handmade pouch a polished finish and make it pleasant to use.

If you enjoy adjusting patterns, browsing Josie’s sewing resources can provide further ideas for construction, fabric selection and independent sewing projects. A pouch is also an approachable way to test techniques before committing to a larger garment.

• Prewash every fabric layer, especially linen, cotton and thrifted clothing.
• Reinforce the top casing with lightweight interfacing if the pouch will carry heavy tools.
• Use contrasting thread for visible topstitching or matching thread for a quieter finish.
• Add a small fabric loop at one side so the pouch can hang from a peg or bag handle.
• Label the outside with embroidery, a woven tag or a simple patchwork detail.