Helen's Closet Gilbert top pattern review

The Helen's Closet Gilbert Top has been sitting on my wishlist for ages, and after months of admiring other people's makes across Instagram, I finally downloaded the PDF and got stuck in. This relaxed, boxy knit tee has earned a devoted following among home sewists for very good reason — it's versatile, works beautifully with countless fabrics, and sews up quicker than you'd expect. To give it a proper workout, I made two versions: one in a drapey viscose jersey for everyday wear, and another in a structured ponte for layering through those fickle Melbourne mornings when you need four outfits before lunch.

For anyone unfamiliar with the brand, Helen's Closet is a Canadian indie pattern company run by Helen Stephenson, celebrated for wardrobe staples that prioritise comfort and modern silhouettes. The Gilbert sits firmly within that aesthetic, offering a relaxed fit with dropped shoulders, three neckline options, and short or long sleeve choices. It belongs to that rare category of patterns that genuinely earns its place as a wardrobe workhorse after just one or two makes.

I approached this review as someone who has sewn plenty of indie patterns but hadn't tackled Helen's Closet designs before. My aim was to offer an honest assessment of construction difficulty, sizing accuracy, and styling potential, alongside a fair comparison to other similar knit tops I've made, including the Love Notions Allie Top which I reviewed earlier this year.

The Gilbert enters a crowded marketplace of indie knit top patterns, yet it stands apart through thoughtful drafting and an inclusive size range spanning 0–30. The PDF includes bust measurements from 30 to 60 inches, and the instruction booklet features clear diagrams and concise writing throughout.

Pattern features and design details

The Gilbert Top arrives with several variations to keep things interesting. You can choose between a classic crew neckline, a scoop neck, or a v-neck, each finished with a separate neckband piece. The body features a relaxed, slightly oversized silhouette with gentle shaping through the side seams, and there's an optional curved hem that adds a subtle design detail. I made the crew neck first, then tackled the v-neck for my second make, just to see how each neckline behaved.

One element I genuinely appreciate about this pattern is the quality of the drafting. The shoulder slope sits correctly without adjustment on my frame, and the armhole is shaped just enough to accommodate a standard t-shirt sleeve without feeling restrictive. The dropped shoulder seam is positioned thoughtfully, so the top doesn't read as sloppy even on more petite frames.

For Australian sewists, the layering potential here is enormous. Melbourne's notoriously changeable weather means I need tops that work under cardigans in winter and stand alone on those random 30-degree days in November. The long-sleeve version of the Gilbert handles both scenarios brilliantly, particularly when made in a breathable cotton-rich jersey.

Fabric choices and what works best

Selecting the right fabric makes or breaks any knit project, and the Gilbert is no exception. For my first version, I used a viscose and spandex jersey from the remnant table at Spotlight — a buttery soft fabric with excellent drape and around 5% elastane. It pressed beautifully and recovery was solid, though I found the hem wanted to grow slightly throughout a full day of wear.

My second version used a ponte di Roma sourced from the remnant bin at my local Lincraft. This fabric has considerably more structure and body, which gave the Gilbert an entirely different character — almost sweatshirt-adjacent, yet refined enough to wear casually to the office. The ponte was stable under the machine and required no special handling beyond a ballpoint needle.

If you're shopping in Australia, both Spotlight and Lincraft stock reasonable knit selections, though my personal favourite Australian sources remain independent online stores like The Remnant Warehouse and Tessuti for higher-end options. For beginners, I'd recommend a cotton-rich blend with at least 30% stretch — it's forgiving and feeds through the machine without complaint.

Here's how the main fabric categories compare for this pattern:

Fabric type	Drape	Sewing ease	Best suited to	Stretch %
Viscose jersey	High	Moderate	Everyday tees, summer wear	50–60%
Ponte di Roma	Low	Easy	Layering, structured looks	30–40%
Cotton spandex	Medium	Easy	Beginners, year-round wear	40–50%
French terry	Medium	Moderate	Casual loungewear	30–40%

Construction process and skill level

The Gilbert is genuinely beginner-friendly, though I'd classify it as a confident beginner project rather than an absolute first make. The pattern pieces fit together logically, and seam allowances are a generous 3/8 inch, which makes sewing knits slightly more forgiving than the standard 1/4 inch found in some other indie brands.

The trickiest part of construction is attaching the neckband. Helen's Closet uses the traditional method of dividing the neckband into quarters and matching it to the bodice, which works beautifully if you take your time. I basted my neckband in place first before sewing with my overlocker, and this small step made a noticeable difference to the final result. Without an overlocker, a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag on a regular machine will do the job perfectly.

The hem can be finished several ways depending on preference. I used a twin needle for my viscose version, which gave a polished finish, and simply left the ponte hem raw since the fabric doesn't fray. The sleeve hems are narrow and straightforward, though I did shorten mine by about 2cm to suit my proportions.

Fit, sizing and adjustments

The Gilbert is drafted for a relaxed fit with around 10–15cm of positive ease through the body, depending on which size you select. I sewed a straight size 14 based on my bust measurement, and the fit was spot-on through the shoulders and chest, though I did take it in slightly at the waist for a more shaped silhouette that suits my personal style.

Sizing runs true to the measurement chart, which always comes as a relief with indie patterns. The size 14 corresponds to a 38-inch bust, and I found plenty of room without looking tent-like. If you're between sizes or prefer a more oversized look, I'd recommend sizing up rather than down, since the pattern already includes generous ease.

For sewists interested in adjusting the fit further, my grading between sizes tutorial walks through blending between the bust and waist measurements, and the Gilbert's clean drafting lines make this adjustment surprisingly straightforward even for those new to pattern modifications.

Variations, modifications and customisation ideas

Once you've sewn the basic version, the Gilbert invites experimentation. The pattern lends itself well to colourblocking, which I've seen executed beautifully on Australian sewists' feeds using contrasting neckbands and cuffs. A simple modification like swapping the crew neck for a scoop neck entirely changes the personality of the garment.

Lengthening or shortening the body is straightforward since the pattern includes clear lengthen and shorten lines. For taller sewists, I noticed the standard length sat a little cropped on my 175cm frame, so I added 4cm to the hem for my second version. You can also crop it dramatically for a true summer tank style.

Sleeve modifications are popular in the Facebook sewing groups I belong to, with many makers adding elasticated cuffs or bell-shaped variations for a more dramatic silhouette. Cuff bands in a contrast fabric also work nicely if you want to use up smaller remnants.

Styling and wearability

This is where the Gilbert genuinely excels. I've worn my viscose version tucked into high-waisted jeans with sneakers for weekend outings, and layered under a wool blazer with trousers for casual workdays. The ponte version has become my go-to for travel days — comfortable enough for long-haul flights but polished enough that I don't feel scruffy arriving at my destination.

For the Australian climate, the short-sleeve version is brilliant through the warmer months up north, while the long-sleeve version works beautifully in the southern states through autumn and winter. I've also spotted gorgeous linen jersey versions on local makers that suit the relaxed Australian aesthetic perfectly.

A few styling approaches based on my own wearing experience:

• Tuck into a denim midi skirt with leather sandals for casual lunches
• Wear untucked with bike shorts and slides for hot weekend mornings
• Layer over a fitted long-sleeve thermal for winter warmth
• Pair with wide-leg trousers and a statement necklace for evening drinks

Final verdict and who should make it

Would I recommend the Helen's Closet Gilbert Top? Absolutely, with minor caveats. If you're after a quick, satisfying sew that yields a wearable and stylish result, this pattern delivers on every front. The drafting is professional, the instructions are clear, and the finished garment looks far more expensive than the effort required to make it.

I'd particularly recommend it to:

• Beginners wanting to build skills with knit fabrics
• Experienced sewists seeking a reliable TNT pattern
• Anyone needing a versatile layering piece for year-round wear
• Makers who enjoy personalising patterns with simple modifications

Compared to the Love Notions Allie Top, the Gilbert offers a more relaxed, modern silhouette, while the Allie delivers a closer fit with slightly more shaping through the waist. Both are excellent patterns, but they serve different purposes within a handmade wardrobe.

The only minor drawbacks are the PDF layer setup (sizes aren't separated for easy printing) and the limited sleeve variations included. These are small quibbles in an otherwise excellent pattern. I'll definitely be making more versions — a striped ponte version is calling my name, and I think a crisp linen blend would be gorgeous for the Australian summer ahead.